“There will be a military coup,” said my partner over six months ago. He was so right, he was so wrong. What is happening right now in Istanbul, this Sunday morning? The streets around me are calm; the odd helicopter overhead, the birds singing, the horns of passing tankers on the Bosphorus, men drinking coffee in the street below my window. All the clichés of a city still perceived as ‘oriental’ continue. But these things are just normal life to me – except the call to prayer, which sounds different now. Continue →